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The Ivanka & Co Guides
Diamond shapes
Shape is the first decision, and the most personal. Cut, colour and clarity can be weighed. Shape is simply chosen.
Brilliant shapes
Brilliant-cut stones are faceted to return as much light as possible. They hide small inclusions and a trace of colour well.
Round
The classic. Its 57 or 58 facets are cut for maximum brilliance, and it is the only shape graded for cut quality by GIA on a full scale from Excellent to Poor. Round stones usually cost more per carat than other shapes, because more rough is lost in cutting.
Oval
A stretched brilliant. Ovals look larger than a round of the same carat weight and lengthen the finger. Many ovals show a darker bow-tie across the centre; look at the stone itself, or its video, before you choose.
Cushion
A square or slightly rectangular outline with rounded corners and soft, broad flashes of light.
Radiant and princess
Square or rectangular brilliants with cropped (radiant) or pointed (princess) corners. Protect pointed corners with prongs.
Pear, marquise and heart
Shapes with one or two points. They look large for their weight. The points are the most vulnerable part of the stone and should sit under a prong or V-tip.
Step-cut shapes
Emerald and asscher
Long, parallel facets like a hall of mirrors. Step cuts show clarity and colour more openly than brilliants, so many buyers choose a higher clarity grade for them.
Shape and ratio
Elongated shapes are described by their length-to-width ratio. Ovals and pears often fall between about 1.3 and 1.6, emerald cuts between about 1.3 and 1.5. There is no correct ratio, only the one that suits the hand.
| Shape | Character | Shows inclusions |
|---|---|---|
| Round | Maximum sparkle | Least |
| Oval, pear, marquise | Looks larger, elongates | Low |
| Cushion, radiant, princess | Soft or crisp square brilliance | Low |
| Emerald, asscher | Clean lines, mirror-like flashes | Most |
Our loose diamonds can be filtered by shape. Every stone is listed with its carat, colour, clarity and, where available, its grading report.
Questions
- Which diamond shape is the most popular?
- Round is the most widely chosen shape for engagement rings, followed by oval and other elongated shapes.
- Which diamond shape looks biggest for its carat weight?
- Elongated shapes such as oval, marquise and pear show more surface area from above than a round of the same weight, so they tend to look larger.
- Which shape hides inclusions best?
- Brilliant shapes such as round, oval and cushion hide small inclusions better than step cuts such as emerald and asscher, which have large open facets.
- Does shape affect price?
- Yes. Round diamonds generally cost more per carat than fancy shapes of similar quality, because more of the rough crystal is lost when cutting a round.
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